Another day in Kinshasa . . .

Going to work my driver said “Look at those soldiers: what are they doing? That’s not normal.” We were driving along a featureless road, featureless apart from the fact that at the end is a barrier manned by soldiers, and beyond the barrier is the no man’s land surrounding the President’s office. Less that 100 metres from this no man’s land is a huge, badly designed house that is our office.

Five minutes later, I hear the boss talking very loudly on his phone. He rushes into my office: “They’ve arrested Jean-Paul (not his real name) who was walking to the office from the hotel. The Presidential Guard have stopped him and won’t release him.” These were the very same soldiers we had seen earlier.

Our office Manager, Maria (not her real name either) is sent to intercede, and fifteen minutes later Jean-Paul is back. Obviously growling internally, but trying hard to keep calm.

He said they had demanded to see his passport, and insisted that he empty his backpack onto the grass verge. They appeared to have no idea what they were doing, but everyone assumes that they were expecting a payoff, which Maria’s negotiations had eliminated.

Later that morning we go with our political and economic advisor, a famous Belgian expert whose influence and tentacles in the DRC are world-famous, to brief senior USAID and Embassy staff on the political situation. Even though their office is near the station in an area considered quite dodgy, USAID have stuck it out through thick and thin.

The briefing is about how the current government is deeply divided, and characterised by fear. Everyone, both within the inner political circle and the country as a whole, is conscious of the build up of tension due to the decline in the economy and deeply held ethnic enmities. Kabila’s efforts to hang onto power are only succeeding due to a divided, weak opposition and the savage repression of any protest. There’s a fin de siècle feel, which parallels the end of Mobutu’s reign.

It is a disturbing presentation, and undoubtedly authentic. We leave feeling nervous about the future.

We decide to have lunch at a nearby restaurant that specialises in quick service. It’s a bizarre place, decorated as a Belgian cottage, but serves relatively normal food.

We’re ending the meal when the boss has a phone call. “There’s trouble in the Avenue du Commerce. Shops in the centre are putting down their shutters. Just be careful,” (The Avenue du Commerce is a highly congested mad mad street usually thronged with dodgy, hassling hawkers: it’s about four blocks from the restaurant).

A few minutes later, Maria calls. “There’s an emergency in town. They say there’s been another prison break out. Banks are sending their staff home early.”

The boss promises to deal with the situation when we are back in the office.

Ten minutes later, as we are about to have dessert, Maria calls again. “The Presidential Guard are going to close the whole area around the office at 3 p.m. so if you are not back by then you will not be allowed to get back to the office.”

We rush back, reflecting on the paranoia that requires a lock down, and are in the office by a quarter to three. Maria is dangling the office keys, and getting ready to leave.

“Are you scared?” I ask.

“I was born in war, brought up in war, and have lived through war,” she said. “Scared? Of course not.”

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Here’s the official report we received:

• Incident: Armed attack
• Location: Central market, Kinshasa
• Time/Date: 1400 July 14
• Fatalities (Injuries): 2 (Unknown)

Summary
A group of unidentified assailants armed with machetes, knives, and firearms attacked Kinshasa's central market July 14, leaving at least the market's manager and one of her bodyguards dead. The incident took place at about 1400, causing panic and prompting a number of businesses at the facility to close. Authorities have not released any information concerning any further casualties.

While police and military troops have restored order and secured the scene, heightened security will likely remain deployed in the vicinity of the market for at least the next 24 hours. No group has claimed responsibility for the attack, but authorities believe the perpetrators were regular bandits operating in the DRC capital.