Department Stores

Welcome to the new Mobile Department Store of Kinshasa.

I have something for everyone. You have children? Then I have just the thing: a globe, a beautiful globe, made in Korea no less. For you a good price, very good price.

You’re not interested? Maybe you would like a new pair of shoes? See here: I have just the thing for you – a pair of very good white and red trainers, size 43. Just feel the quality – isn’t it a pleasure? And for this day only, I can offer them at a special price, half the normal.

Wrong size? I’m so sorry.

Then I think I have just the thing for you. A nice light brown suit, size 58 large. Everyone is wearing light brown this year, and just see the subtle yellow check in the background.

You don’t like brown?

Isn’t it hot today? Just see this fan. Open it up – see this beautiful decoration, it transports you to the misty hills of China, so cooling. You like it? Then I will give you the best price in Kinshasa, but before you take it, just look at this.

It is the new heel balm that everyone is using. If you take one of these together with the fan, I’ll give you a double discount.

But wait – I forgot. You haven’t seen my sunglasses. So cool, you’ll feel like a rapper in them. I’ve got two pairs – genuine Raybans. This one here, with the metal rims – that’s what everyone’s buying. Or maybe these tortoiseshell ones – very smart. Try them on.

How about a chest expander? This is the very latest thing from Europe. It will make you strong and attractive to the women. Ha! Ha! That made your eyes light up. Only $20, and you can be a new man.

So what can I give you? Nothing? Please buy something. I’m hungry. Just a few francs for me and my family.

Thus it is that Kinshasa’s hawkers tout their extraordinary collection of trinkets. The logic behind their choice of wares is hard to understand – maybe, the idea is that you may not meet someone who wants a brown suit, but everyone’s got children, so why not have a globe to get their interest? And even if some people do not have size 43 shoes, there must be a lot who do. Surely one of those will see my very special trainers, and fall for them. And my prices – they are to die for. But I must never put them on display, because then my competitors would be able to undercut me.

Just a few paces from these mobile stores is the official opposition. Mostly run by Lebanese the supermarkets stock an extraordinary range of stuff, especially in the food department. The most startling is the imported fruit and vegetables. Lettuce from Holland, cherries from Italy, potatoes from South Africa . . . yes the whole range: carrots, chicory, ginger, tomatoes, onions, parsley, all imported into this poor nation. Importing stuff like that into Dubai is one thing, but Kinshasa?

If you like deserts, you can get imported sorbet in cut-glass bowls; if you’re into charcuterie, fifty or more different salamis, pates, hams and the like; cheeses from all over Europe, and some middle eastern ones as well. And the yoghourts – rows and rows of different flavours and types.

The funny thing is that some of the products are cheaper here than they are in Europe or South Africa – especially cheeses. But for the most part the prices are tear-jerkingly high. Iceberg lettuce: $10, kilo of carrots $4, etc. But from time to time you succumb: “Look darling, I’ve brought you a treat – a lovely lettuce. It is a bit brown at the edges, but at least it’s a lettuce.”

Of course, you can buy locally grown vegetables which in most cases are ugly with blemishes but actually taste much better.

So there you are: a tale of two department stores, two economies, two societies with incomes so far apart that one doesn’t dare think about it.